How to turn a Mountainboard suitable for Dirtwindsurfing.
Given the interest generated around the issue of converting a mountainboard in a pileup fit to practice "dirtwindsurfing" the other day I went and took a few pictures that I hope you serve to clarify the issue.
As you will see is an operation as simple as drilling the table in the right place and screw a mast foot.
I did the simplest way possible, ie, using parts that have the same foot mast we use to navigate, so you do not need a nut or extra. If someone did otherwise it is better, it would be nice to put it in this topic to see it.
Anyway, advance it as I did work perfectly. Total, above and below is impeccable is not ...
THE DRILL
It is the only tricky part, because if taladras where applicable, may be difficult to rectify, and not plan to leave the table as a sieve. The general rules are as focused and put forward as possible. The diameter of the bit has to be virtually the same as the thread of the mast foot. In my case I did less and I had to enlarge the hole with the file. I was careless and I chipped over the top, as can be seen (barely) in the second picture.
The same, seen from below. In the second photo looks in more detail where it falls, just above the "r" (if this is a Scrub Lion Canyon as mine, of course). In my case could have advanced further, but I wanted to allow for shim and I spent a bit on the side of safety.
ASSEMBLY
We take the mast foot and dismantle it completely. There are the necessary parts, from left to right in photo:
- Round plastic washer with a base diameter of the "pellet" (see photos 06-07). This avoids the friction deteriorates the table, and handed over its surface tension.
- Plastic washer, I did but it also serves round square. I am a bit rough, and both this and the previous cropping I made the round plate bearing mast foot all in contact with the table, but any rigid plastic used.
- Nut square foot mast: the same as we used to screw into the table.
- Washer eccentric, which is hidden in the "pellet" and the board foot mast. I took it out and used it as washer, saving instinct, they call it.
- The pellet itself, ie without the mast foot wide base.
Now put the ring on foot. The photo shows the edge "teeth" of the foot, which is covered by the washer. Of course that depends on the mast foot model you have.
And inserted from above into the hole.
On the bottom, we put the washer ... square or circular, or hexagonal or dodecagonal, that gives a little alike, but that is not plastic to scratch the finish of the table, and hard to distribute the stresses.
Put the metal plate as an eccentric ring. To do so within the cutrez elegant solution, I put it aligned with the axis of the table, but come on ... to use a standard washer and fit better.
Finally, screw the square nut with a wrench or appropriate action.
There, and stays in the picture is distorted because it does not really squeezed, only wore it to the photo.
There could be adjusted more to the wheels, and win a couple of millimeters to the foot. Is a question of using smaller washers, yes, considering that at worst smaller tensions distributed. Here is what really matters by placing the drill is the size of the washers, nuts, etc..
Here, with my foot as a protagonist, we see that the space is just right for your foot just got to stop. The truth is that putting the mast foot is too tight, but as the candle goes one step forward, not too upset. This Buhala guess a board like god, or a mountainboard longer, not so much problem.
Above is immaculate, and well, it's a simple, fast and as cheap as having a mast foot (the more flexible, better, by the way).
That's it, I hope the you were still doubting I have served some purpose. A drill, which you will be taking nothing flackas the prairie!
Text and photos: Trivio
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