Fixing the footstraps on a mountainboard.
After converting a Mountainboard suitable for Dirtwindsurfing I comment how to repair a broken anchors the footstraps, you may even think, so I can be very helpful.
REPLACEMENT OF ANCHORS footstraps
The tension that support the footstraps in a table of these is very large, and since they are not directly anchored to it but are secured by a screw long enough, the bending forces on the rod and timber can be brutal.
The specific case that is set before you a nut broken by the leverage of the mast on the front foostrap for a "no hands semiflaka" bad landing. It must be said that the screw hold practically saved my foot ...
Anyway, the tutorial shows how susituir the whole screw, washers and nuts, so that if, for example, you simply have rusted too few of them (if you use insured property on the beach), you can replace equally.
In the next picture you can see the state it was that kind of nut-toothed washer that holds the screw to the wood. You see, the washer itself was uprooted, and the screw came out top of the table.
The main idea is to replace the washer with a new one. I found an equal, but one with the same function of "anchor" to the wood. As you see in the picture, has prongs that scary.
Given the difficulty of finding a similar serve for the set screw (same thread), I decided to buy the entire set: screw, washer and nuts. The screw diameter is slightly larger, making it more robust. Here you see:
The first step is to place the screw foostrap with washers and nuts needed, following the system comes from the factory. In the case of my table (a Scrub Lion Canyon), would read:
In the photo above shows only the part that would be on the table. Below, in principle, only be special nut gear.
Insert the screw and mounted on top and screw the special nut down to touch the wood.
Now comes the fun part: with a suitable wrench, squeeze the nut closest to the table so that it pulls the screw up and slowly nailing the spikes on the bottom nut in the wood.
In the end, the bottom looks like this:
The chips of the edge of the hole are not for inserting the nut with barbs, but after rupture of the screw. As it stands, the union is a thousand times stronger than what is standard, steel and wood have become almost a single piece, as the barbed "push" the wood fibers and tighten. Literally, "wooden gun".
Viewer, you see, the introduced later because the screw was longer than the "standard", although theoretically not necessary.
Well, we already have the screw attached to the wood by the mutual pressure between a locking collar (below) and a normal nut (above). The latter, if loosen allows us to screw or unscrew the screw quietly, and then lock into position.
Since, as I said before, the new screw was longer than the former (which was flush with the wood), I decided to put a nut more and increase overall safety.
Well ... squeeze the nut of the previous photo, and looks like this:
Viewed from the side:
The remaining screw can be cut, but you have to do very well to leave no burrs and then be stuck in the nut to try out.
One more note:
The table brought Allen screws, but I found the extent and desired pitch, so I used a hex head. It is a most uncomfortable poooco because the keys are bigger and less manageable, but is much more durable, and has no holes where injection of sand, water and salt, put the key in preventing and accelerate oxidation.
As a reminder or a curiosity, I describe what each piece, from right to left in the penultimate photo above:
1. Screw head: from here we can turn the screw to enter more or less wood, but has no effect on their degree of fixation. Atornilladlo simply until footstrap height as desired. In this case, the nut should be visible below that intermediate species of white rubber heel. If I put over the screw, the rubber is compressed and covers the nut.
1b. Washer, allocate efforts and protect the material foostrap.
2. Rubber pads, several: This is a thing of the manufacturer and the manual will explain how the table must be of tight or loose.
3. Intermediate Nut: THIS is the nut that locks the screw really pressing it against the wood. If we remove or put, we must loosen the nut, and, once the screw to the desired height, the will press to lock.
3b. Washer, allocate efforts and protect the wood around the hole.
4. Anchor nut timber (not seen): This "nut" holding the barbed bolt upright on the table, preventing twisting or double, and ensuring that the use will not destroy the edges of the hole. This nut screw fixed NOT about MONEY is concerned. For it is fixed, if the intermediate nut (3) is not tight, unscrew the screw smoothly.
5. Nut. It is not only necessary, but probably will not work for almost nothing, but I left over nuts and put them on. It is a way of good measure, and also so you always carry spare nuts on the table.
And that's it, I hope you serve. Be better or worse as it is adjusted the screw length to the original (ie, which protrudes from the bottom), but the result, in any case is very robust, as I say, more than the original.
Text and photos: Trivio
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